Thursday 6 September 2012

Things I will miss about Guyana


  •  The little scooters going by with the family of FOUR



  • Puri roti for breakfast

  • Speedboats

  • Friends



  • The rain boots that I'm leaving behind... 

St. Cuthbert's, Region 4, Guyana

And we arrive...




Passing by the Secondary School,
Health Centre
Building where volunteers stay, etc
See the post for the volleyball net?
Yep, it's the electric post!!!


Jamoon. The blacker the berry, the sweeter the juice...

Tasted okay-ish





Down by the creek...

More black water...

Good-bye St. Cuthbert's...

Wednesday 5 September 2012

On the way to St. Cuthbert's Amerindian Settlement, Region 4

Digicel Top Up - Everywhere
Pickled mango and pickled everything!

One of the bigger - more famous hotels - just outside the main part of town

The good old rum... factory coming up.
Distillery
 
Hmmmm....

Hilly, sandy area...
Turning off the main road towards the settlement...

They JUST got a new road

Here it is.... It went on FOREVER!

And finally... we get to signs of a community. :)
Stay tuned for the second set of pictures from this series...

Monday 3 September 2012

15 Things I will NOT miss about Guyana

As much as we volunteers plan for most things, sometimes things come up outside of our control. I came to Guyana to volunteer for a year. That was my intent. But, life calls... and I have to go back home. Good or bad, here are some things I won't miss...
  1. Eating with a SPOON (especially a plastic spoon for take-out!)
  2. Honking car horns - especially outside my bedroom throughout the nights
  3. The hazards of walking down the street
  4. The garbage around town and at the Sea Wall
  5. The canals with the dirty, mucky water and overgrown flora (and rats)
  6. ROADKILL - Toads and rats
  7. Mini-buses with BLARING music
  8. All night parties - outside my bedroom window
  9. The roosters, horses, donkeys, dogs, and whatever else lurks beyond my bedroom window in the early mornings
  10. Frequent power cuts
  11. S-l-o-w internet
  12. The Sizzling HEAT
  13. The rainy season and the floods 
  14. The mosquitoes, cockroaches, flies, frogs and mice Critters that make me miss Toronto
  15. The cold water showers!!!  The rainy season brings colder water
Next I will talk about what I WILL miss...

Wednesday 29 August 2012

The hazardous walk to work

For a long time I've been meaning to tell you about my walks to work. Somehow in the hot sun, I feel the danger is multiplied. When I leave out to work by the time I'm closing my door, I'm certain of the need for an umbrella. Either because it's raining, or because the sun is beating down in my back! As I get out the gate and start out down the road, I'm trying to cross the line of cars that is forming at the traffic light. Now, I'm only three houses down from the traffic light, so if they've passed my house and the light is red, they have to stop in a few feet. But you would NEVER know this from the speed with which they APPROACH!!!!!

I meander through the cars and head down the main road towards my office. Two men at the construction site feel they must call out to me. I reply and walk ahead. A bus conductor is trying to get my attention. This is normally done by pursing your lips and making a kissing sound. Except this is a looooong, exaggerated kiss. He wants to know if I'm coming to his bus... even though I'm heading south and he's on a corner going west. A man on his bicycle who is going west veers around and rides up beside me.
Good morning. How far you going?
I wonder why this is any of his business. I say good morning and keep walking.
You looking good today. Can I get your phone number?
Whaaaaat? Is he crazy? But I smile confidently and keep going. He is now riding beside me... The chatter and the offers keep up all the way down the road.

My feet are twisting on the uneven roadside as I try to manoeuver gingerly along. There is no sidewalk. There is sand/dirt at the side of the road if you would prefer to walk in that rather than twisting your feet constantly. What's the trade-off? Dirty feet? I cut a square around the leaky pipe that has left a puddle outside one of the shops. This is not easy. The cars going past at 90mph do NOT care if you need to step an inch into the street. As they go by I can feel more than a few of them as they whiz past. They're that close. Occasionally I whip my head around in horror as I realize my elbow almost left my side. This is no joke. A fellow volunteer was already knocked as he walked down the street. These are the daily rigours of Georgetown!!!  Walk STRAIGHT. Do not step an inch outside of your zone, because believe me, the driver speeding past has NOT calculated for that. And he is going to pass and raise the hair on your arms. If you have to cross the street, do not assume that when you turn around you can do so at a wide angle. Better step BACKWARDS as you turn. That mistake could cost you dearly!

By now, a dog has come running up to me. I remember how my housemate was bitten. I hold my breath and keep my umbrella handy. The dog jogs beside me. Oh goodie, one dog on the left, a man on a bicycle on the right. The other thing you have to watch out for is roadkill and animal droppings. Now, dog doo is bad enough, but, if a horse has gone by you have that to contend with AS WELL. If he went by a long time ago, it's just dried stuff you don't want to avoid. But, if he went by 1/2 hr ago, you're in TROUBLE! You definitely DON'T NEED THAT. But, this is not just up to your cute tip-toeing. If you're walking along and a car goes by, that stuff is kicked up by the wheel and splashes in all directions! YIKES!

The man on the right is frustrated about not getting my number even though he's offered to buy me a phone. He gives up just as I'm about to turn into the street on which I work. Good I don't know what I would've done if he'd continued to follow me. I don't really want him to know where I work. The one on four legs continues with me. Where is he GOING???

There is a HUGE lake across the street. This from all the rain that has been falling. The road has been eaten out and there is nowhere for the water to run. So, of course it only gets deeper each day. I need rain boots to cross here.  I make it across and finally get in to work. The dog tries to follow me in. What's up with THAT? But, at least he didn't bite me. And I'm now safely inside....

Monday 27 August 2012

Living in Guyana's houses

Did you know that the walls in the houses in Guyana don't go all the way to the ceiling? Okay. Maybe that's not the case for EVERY last house, but that's the general style. Now I may have mentioned this in a previous blog, along with the fact that the houses are built on "stilts" in Georgetown since Georgetown is below sea level. (Hence the Sea Wall as seen in early posts).

When I was coming to Guyana I first heard about this phenomenon of dividing walls not hitting the ceiling. I immediately thought of those cubicles in washrooms that don't hit the ceiling or the floor. Hmmm. Talk about lack of privacy. I was maybe 40% concerned. After all, I wasn't moving here with my husband so there would be no hanky-panky with a house-mate next door, but I still worried about it. And what about the bathrooms???  But, I decided not to worry about it too much, as there was NOTHING I could do about this. So, I just hoped for the best.

I was fortunate. Very fortunate. The house I moved into was a regular house with full height walls! Of course, that probably also means my house is HOT since the walls that don't meet the ceiling are designed for better air flow and to keep the houses a leeeetle cooler. I've also seen some houses where the bathroom walls stop short too. VERY WEIRD. I think. Good enough I don't have to deal with THAT. But, here are some pictures of different walls as I've seen them since I've been here...


   No pun intended, but don't you think it's COOL? :-)

Saturday 25 August 2012

Inter Guianas Cultural Festival Experience

I didn't even know this existed and was currently on! Maybe it's because I don't watch Guyana TV or have an opportunity to listen to the radio. I do think it's the responsibility of my friends here to tell me what's going on... but, at least I stumbled upon it eventually!

What's this all about? Three countries, two hot girls, one fun night.

Guyana, Suriname and French GuianaWhat do you know about them? Did you even realize that all three existed? Did you know there used to be FIVE Guianas? British, Spanish, French, Dutch and Portuguese Guiana? 


Last night we were treated to a Fashion Show from Suriname, French Guiana and Guyana. But first, there was GUYANA NIGHT! It was interestingly depicted by a tourist landing in Guyana and being shown around the country. We heard the plane arriving, the "Welcome to Guyana" and then we see them as they head through the town.. and pass through the market. Lots of women colourfully dressed, the local newspaper being sold, etc. There's a point when the tourist asks, "What you got?" and the response is "WEED!". And of course he's introduced to all the different herbs and "bushes" used in Guyana. Then he gets offered Coconut Water (sung to Jamaica's Harry Belafonte popular tune). There is a masquerade (which we would call Jonkanoo in Jamaica), and then there was a Mashramani (see earlier blog post) staging. The tourist certainly enjoyed himself running after all the girls. They then moved into some reggae/dancehall presentations. We also saw a Kwe-kwe which is a tradition performed the night before an Afro-Guyanese wedding and also saw a Hindu wedding. It was certainly a good fun way to showcase Guyana - and the tourist surely enjoyed himself.

The fashions were distinctive and it was interesting to see the use of beads, feathers and fabric in the Suriname dress. French Guiana showcased different scarves used as a head-dress and then of course some more sophisticated fashions with intricate designs. Guyana did an entire history and showed how different ethnic groups arrived and dressed over the years. We saw Amerindians, Whites, Blacks, Indians, Chinese and of course, they ended with what the current children of Guyana look like. It was clearly one big melting pot.

Two Hot Girls
I attended with my friend and it was clear we stole the show! Haha.  We were at the National Culture Center - which of course has a dress code. No shorts, no tee-shirts, no jeans, etc. But naturally, we dressed up - for the night! It was fitting!

It was a fun night. I think I learned a thing or two. Did you?

Tuesday 21 August 2012

Power cuts and Pholourie in Guyana!

 Today I got into work and there was no electricity. (again). It doesn't happen frequently, but it DOES happen. When there's no electricity there's no air conditioning or fans, no computers, no internet, therefore... no work! But, we had to do the right thing and hang around for hours on end... waiting... waiting.

Did you realize that when there's no power, it means you can't heat up your cold food that was in the fridge? hmmm. So, no lunch either.

So, we went home early. YIPPEEEEEEEEE!!!!  Hope I didn't sound too excited there, but WHO DOESN'T LIKE TO GO HOME EARLY???

But, of course, when you live as close to work as I do... it means there's probably no power at home either. So, what does one do when there's no electricity?

Try to make pholourie! Here's my first attempt at it...
=======================>

I wanted to give you a good idea of what pholourie is, so I looked it up on the internet. But apparently no one has attempted to really explain what it is, though there are many recipes up and about! Well, it's all about the split peas. Some people use split pea powder. The traditionalists soak their split peas then blend them with garlic, etc in a little water. This is seasoned with curry, gheera, pepper and whatever else you like. A little flour is added and then a batter is made. This is then deep fried and served with sour or achar, but I just eat them plain! They are sold all over Guyana and one of my loves. (Hence the 10lbs I haven't lost).

This is what my finished batch looked like...


Wednesday 15 August 2012

Packages and such

I KNOW that all of you wanted to send me care packages. I just do. Is it that you've been waiting for me to tell you what to send? I don't know for sure, but I'm going to tell you about my experience so far with the Georgetown P.O.

On June 18th a friend in Toronto sent me a book.....             .................             ......................


Yes, there was a looong wait. And wait. And there was more waiting. Naturally I figured, there was probably something amiss with the address. So, I decided that the book was lost forever more, and I moved on with my life. It came somewhere around the end of July. Finally. The address was correct. What was the hold up? I will never know. So, does it take SIX weeks for mail to come from Toronto to Georgetown? Hmmm.

One last experiment. (And at this point I do  mean LAST). I asked someone to go to the dollar store and buy me two light items. Some headbands. These I did want, but figured that if I never got them, I wouldn't die. They were mailed to me on the 26th of July. One week later they were in Georgetown. ONE week!! The only thing is that this time I received a slip to come and collect a parcel. GROAN. I'm way too lazy. Did I need this? The slip also indicated that the handling charge was $500. Now, at Gy$200:Cdn$1, the package value to me was about $400. And it was a gift. And now I had to pay more than the price of the gift just for HANDLING??? I shook my head and groaned.

Someone also mentioned that was not the final price and taxes would be added when I got there and they assessed the goods. Sigh. Anyway, I finally made it to the post office because I was told that if it stayed more than a week they would likely charge me Storage Fees as well!!!  I was beginning to think this was a BAD experiment. Whose idea was it anyway?

So, I made it to the main P.O. in Georgetown yesterday morning. (I was afraid to take any pictures lest I was arrested). The place has no "front door, but rather just an opening into an "arcade-type" building. I found the section where Parcels were delivered. there were a few people there. I waited. I noticed a couple of people handing in slips. I waited. And then I noticed a sign that said parcels delivered 8:30-10:45a.m. Or something like that I can't remember the other times that were on it. I wondered what that meant. Did that mean the delivery truck was out at during those hours, so if you're expecting a package that's the time they would come to your house? I looked at the clock on the wall. 10:40a.m. A moment of panic. I had to get back to work. This would be a BAD story if they closed at 10:45 and I didn't get through. Oh boy!

A few minutes later a gentleman who had noticed me standing there came up and asked if there were anymore slips? I quickly handed him mine. He took it and promptly picked up a big standing sign and placed it atop the desk. CLOSED!  In Your Face! They were not playing!

Phew. Lucky. But, do they really do that? They do. I watched an argument with a man from Europe who told them not to open his parcel because he had diplomatic immunity.
"You've signed a convention he said. You can't open it"
The girl went and checked with Customs. Came back. Apologized and started to tape the box back up.

My turn. The girl looks at me. Cuts open my package. Indicates to the customs officer that it's hair stuff and goes away. Eventually she comes to me and tells me I have to wait while they "assess" the taxes. hmmm. worry. Ay Caramba!

Finally I get called and handed the slip back to go and pay. $200 in duty and another $200 in taxes!!!!!!!!  I'm now paying $900 for a free gift worth $400. WTF?!!?!?!?!?!  I had more waiting at the very meticulous cashier who was taking his time spelling the words and dutifully stamping everything! Then I had to wait on the same girl who had served me before to go collect my package and examine it, examine my paid slip, Stamp that, give me a paper to sign that I'd received the package. Some more stamping. Finally it was in my hand!

Are you still thinking of sending me a Care Package????!?!??!!!   ]:)

Sunday 12 August 2012

The week that was!

After Emancipation Day came Independence Day in Jamaica! Celebrating our fiftieth anniversary this year. JAMAICA 50! Woo Hoo!!! I'm sorry I missed it, but got updates from family and friends there. Heard it was a blast!

And to top it off and ice the cake... the Summer Olympics were on. Naturally, you could see why I was on a bit of a break, right? London 2012 started off with me watching volleyball, diving, swimming and gymnastics. Jamaica had one entrant in the swimming, and she DEFINITELY made her mark. Go Alia Atkinson!!!  Coming in fourth in her first race. She's a STAR! I'm impressed and can't wait for her to dive in at the Olympics in Brazil in 2016.

But, the real deal in athletics for us Jamaicans and the greater Caribbean is the second week of the Olympics when the track and field begins. Yes, we had a few people in the field events and Trinidad made history in the javelin, but all eyes are on the track. Shelly Ann Fraser-Pryce, the Pocket Rocket, Yohan Blake, the beast, and of course, Usain Bolt, the Lightning Bolt. If you've never heard of these people, you need to get on google. That is all I can say to you, but you would have already missed one of the greatest weeks in sporting events. Certainly for this year! Jamaica left the Olympics with 12 medals - a good haul, and we certainly celebrated this during the week that was.

Did the Olympic Organizers know what they were doing when they switched the way they usually end the events? Of course!!! Usually it ends with the 4x4oom relay. This year, they ended with the 4x100m relay. A real showdown between the US and Jamaica - with Jamaica winning the GOLD of course. And with Usain running the anchor (last) leg, he was the first across the line, and naturally the stadium erupted. He had everyone yelling, screaming and doing the wave. What a way to end the show. Do we NEED a closing ceremony??

Wednesday 1 August 2012

Emancipation Day - Guyana

Did I mention that I was going to Swari in Region 5, Guyana? Well, let me tell you what I've learned. When you're gathering information in Guyana, always, and I mean ALWAYS, try to verify this information in some way.

When I asked about this Swari, I tried to find out from many people what it was all about. I couldn't get a straight answer. Some said it was like Mash (Mashramani), Others said it was the Afro Guyanese celebrations with people dressing up, drums, dancing, etc. I was curious. I went, I saw, I'm back.

First thing I have to tell you is this. On the way BACK from Berbice I passed a banner that had been posted on the side of the road. I didn't get to read all the details as we zoomed past at 80km/hr, but I did catch one word in it... SOIREE.  Oooooookaaaaaaaaaaaay then!!!!  So, NOW I know what they've been talking about all this time. Geez. Why didn't anyone just say so? Of course, with the accent that I'm still trying to understand - and their bastardized spelling of the French word, it has become Swari, and Soiree was far removed from my thoughts. Hmm.

Anyhow, it was a big street party with much music, much food and drink and much fashion. Ohhhh the fashion! Guyanese fashion is like no other. But, I will get into that another day. People were up and down greeting each other, enjoying the music and just having a nice Caribbean time. There were a few police milling around, but there was no fried plantain to be found. A big disappointment for me as I was soooo looking forward to this. I did, however, try Souse. Now, for those of you who don't know what Souse is, I'm going to challenge you to do a little research on your own. This is important as I get the idea of what Souse is, but I can't explain it myself, ESPECIALLY if you don't want it to turn out like the Swari/Soiree mishap from the misinformation I've received on the streets of Guyana. Suffice it to say that the one I tried was made with chicken foot (It can be made with different things starting with the heads of pigs and moving on...). I don't know what it was sitting in, but it was not hot, although I expected it to be a little soup/broth. I refused to try the liquid, but I did taste some of the toes. All I can say is... they were cooked. :) It was ok.

Other than all of this, Berbice remained as I remembered it the first time I went. Filled with cows, horses, donkeys, dogs, goats, sheep? either on the side of the road or trying to cross as cars fly down the road. Did I have a good time in Berbice?

I did, but what I'm really looking forward to is my journey to Regions 7, 8 and 9 in a couple of months. Stay tuned...

Monday 30 July 2012

Guyana's Emancipation Day



Cuffy is a National Hero in Guyana, brought in the 18th century from Africa to be a slave in Berbice. He is commemorated in a Monument in the Square of the Revolution in Georgetown. He is most well known for his part in the Berbice Slave Rebellion when men and women decided to rebel against the inhumane treatment they were receiving as slaves. They burned buildings and cane fields, but Cuffy is the one who organized them into a fighting force, and once they won, he became Governor of Berbice.


The 1st of August is Emancipation Day in Jamaica, a Civic Holiday (Simcoe Day) in Canada - or at least in Ontario (the first monday), and Emancipation Day in Guyana. In Jamaica, Emancipation Day is close to Independence Day (celebrated on the 6th) and there are usually lots of parades, food, parties and the like. In Toronto it is time for Caribana (the Caribbean Carnival which takes place with hundreds of revellers in costume chipping down the Lake Shore).


In Guyana, we celebrate the British parliament passing the Act of Emancipation approximately 180 years ago. There will be celebrations at the National Park in Georgetown - drumming, prayers, candelit processions, colourful dance and music shows commemorate the end of African slavery nationwide. I'm sure people will also be at the Sea Wall. This year - the 16th year of celebrations will have the theme, “Reclaiming Our Rights through Unified Purpose”.


West Coast Berbice had the first sets of communal villages after the slave rebellion, so many of the Emancipation Day celebrations take place in Berbice, Region 5. So, guess where I'm going on Tuesday night? Guess!!! GUESS!!!!! I'm going to "Swari" in Berbice. Don't know what that is? I will update you on that after I've recovered! J

My first Guyanese Wedding

Here comes the bride...
I attended a Guyanese wedding on Saturday. I was excited to see what this would be like. We arrived at the church - very few people there, but, we all know Caribbean people can be late. the bridal party came in and created an arch for the bride to walk through which was quite nice.

The bride was stunning - she was beautiful and obviously happy and quite relaxed. The wedding itself was fairly entertaining, and we watched them exchange their vows and of course, kiss.

At the church




What was very interesting is that this church building was new, and they had obviously pulled together to make it possible for the wedding to take place that day - pulling an all-nighter to get the place painted and ready - at least on the inside.
Dance Ministry


There was a dancer and a song or two. What was a little surprising to me was how few people were in the church. I thought, this is quite a small wedding and I began to feel like I was a little out of place in this intimate gathering of family and friends. However, as the afternoon wore on, a few more people entered. Phew. Okay.

After the wedding we drove around for a little knowing that the bridal party was going to take pictures and it was a little while before they would get to the reception. The wedding started at 4p.m., so we gave them a little time and then turned up for the evening's celebration. When we entered the church I noticed two things:
The Reception

  1. It was really beautifully decorated
  2. It was very empty. A nice big room, lots of tables, few people. 

"Oh no, I thought, what a shame that they were expecting all these people and they didn't turn up."








Well, at least we were there, so I figured... Let's get this party started, right???






And, in entered the bride with her husband! She was so radiant. I was hoping she really was enjoying herself and not just covering up!!!

As time went on, people entered in dribbles and drabbles. Most seemed to come just in time to get dinner. :-) And some just collected their dinners in styrofoam containers!!!!! (Oh yes, these were provided). By the time we were leaving at 10:00p.m. the room was full - and more guests were still arriving!!!

"Why are people coming in so late?" I asked my friend several times throughout the night. She must've been quite annoyed with me for being so dumb. Apparently, this is quite the norm!